The start of an idea........
How it all started. At a visit of one our friends from Holland at Espartal Portugal we talked about what he could do after his retirement. Being both sportive guys one of the ideas was to follow a spiritual route from Holland to Portugal. And actually, there are three ways to follow this route through Belgium, France, Spain en Portugal. An East-side route through Belgium, France and Spain, in France a midth route and a Western route. In Spain there are from St Jean Pied de Port and Somport two main routes. One is going from St Jean Pied de Port to Burgos, Leon to Santiago; the other one is a track through the Picos, Santander and downwards to Leon. More possibilities than time. I describe these routes in general, there are more possibilities but that is beyond our aim.
In the following months, talked things over thanks to Skype and eventually the decision was made to start in Schagen (provence of North Holland), through Belgium, follow the western route in France, take the most common route in Spain to Burgos and bow to the south Salamanca, Caceres and from there enter Portugal in Elvas, Alvito(middle of Alentejo) to the shores of Sines, follow the coastline to Aljezur/Espartal. The estimated distance 3200km.
For me the question was where to get a new bike, special for this trip. Eventually I found one in Schagen. It seemed later on a very good choice. We talked things over and finally decided to buy a tailor made bycicle, Marco's Bikes, a frame Dragat Explorer X5.
The following question was how to organize the trip. Would we do it alone without any support? Sleeping in hotels, pensions? The fact was that my friend had bought a campervan a year ago. At the end that seemed to be the solution. With the help of our wives driving the campervan and supporting us on the way, a lovely offer which we appreciated a lot.
The time to set off was targeted on the 27th of august planning to fullfill the trip in more or less than 30 days. Sponsered by Marco, we headed on the 27th of augustus, pouring rain, but optimistic we began our adventure.
Preparation......
Training started in June as well as in Portugal as in Holland. In total more than 1000km of intensive training in mountain area, I tried to get a good condition before starting. Biking in 30o summertime Algarve was not the easiest way to get in shape, especially not in the mountain area, not my cup of tea.
Than the issue of the route. We decided not to use GPS because from a number of active bikers we learned that those maps wore neither edequite nor handy to bike. The solution was ordinary copies of detailled maps, plastify them and off we went.
Starting time.....
Off we went on the 27th of august our first track from Schagen via Haarlem to Voorhouten. Pouring rain, strong winds, not a start you would dream off. But despite weather conditions, it went well. Arriving at Voorhouten in the afternoon, welcomed by family from my friend, a nice meal and comfortable bed. Heading next day , Voorhouten, KrimpenadIjssel,Dordrecht, (ferry) -Breda (camping Ulvenhout), to a small village below Breda. Again pouring rain, even worse than the day before. Just in the area of Capelle ad Ijssel, an accident. A car had missed me on the special bicycle track, could not avoid her and whoops, a frontal collision, smashed on the tarted road. Consequencies; bicycle wheels destroyed, treadles, gear damaged etc. Luckely, no physical damage except some scrapes. Heading back to Schagen and try to fix the bike. And here comes my good friend Marco. Called him on a Sunday, made a deal to bring the bike on Monday morning. He would try to get new spare parts and started Monday night at 3 am, to reconstruct the bike. Tuesday morning at 7am my bike was totaly fixed, running again as before!!!!!!!! What a joy!
Heading by train with the bikes to Breda and we made a new start. One thing was better, the weather. Beautifull sunshine, green meadows, lovely waterways where we could bike on special tracks, a nice day to start. Breda-Hoogstraten,Mechelen, Aalst, Geraardsbergen, Lessine,Tournai. The Belgian is very beautifull, along canals, hilly area, old cities (Mechelen) to the French border. The camping was difficult to find and is on the north side of Tornai. Campingsite is OK, only is lying along a busy road. After a nice meal, prepared in the campervan, what a luxury, time to sleep. Early rise tomorrow.
Next day, planning a track from Tournai to Joncourt ( in between Sameon, Abscon, Cambrai, Bantouzelle, Honecourt s-Escault.
The beginning of the North France plain fields. Strong SW winds were against us, small villages and large spaces in between. I must admist that accept for Cambrai (beautifull old roman city) this kind of landscape does not attract me, but is a part of the Camino to Santiago. Cambrai is beautifull because of the monastery's, old cathedral and remaing houses from the periode around 1600. Despite of war damage, a lot of the old buildings have been restored. This last part of the track from Cambrai to Honecourt is hilly, now and then steep short climbs, but the environment full of forest, old farms, so a changing landscape, which is challenging to bike through.
Campingsite was not OK. More a campsite for caravans, facilities were poor.
Honecourt-s-Escault-Noyon (in between St Quentin, Noyon), two old cities from the Roman period. St Quentin was established in 2nd century under the old Augusta Viromanduorum, a cross-point of old Roman roads. In 1080 Augusta got city rights with all its benefits. Between 1230 and 1500 the old cathedral was build. The city is important in the Picardie provence. In the 1st world war much of the city was destroyed. Because of the empty places the city got beautifull parks instead. Noyon was established in 531 by the biship of St Medard and became the capital of the Frankian period.
The cathedral Notre Dame from 11th and 12th century is a masterpiece of the transformation period. There is museum Musee de Noyannais, dedicated to architecture and art. There has always been a French and Vlamish influence.
Noyon-Henonville, (in between Compiegne, Clermont, Mouy, Meru, )
Apart from the last part of the track, before Henonville, nothing to report. Hilly plains, a slight drizzle all day and still strong SW winds. It is time that we getting a little bit of warmth. Henonville is nice place with forests, small rivers, castles well preserved and an excellent campsite near the river. Facilities very well. In the evening to cafe, ( only open, off season). Thunder and heavy rain storms lying in our tent, which was not really waterproof. Next day, decision time. Buying a new tent, the old one was totally nothing anymore. Wies would be searching for another one the next day. ( she hard a hard time to find one but at last, a beautifull 3 persons tent, Spanish model, excellent.
Henonville-Chartres ( our first resting day at the tour)
Campsite in Chartres just outside the centre of the old city. Busy campsite because of the famous cathedral in Chartres, but facilities were excellent.
Chartres, old Roman city ( where not in France), with the cathedral is highlighted point in the city. The cathedral build between 1145 and 1155, destroyed when it was finished by fire. Rebuild again which totally new way of construction sealings, which was later on called "Gothic". In the church you can follow a path which is calle the " knob of life", a labyrinth with a circle of 12,5 mediocrity and 300 m in lenght. The cathedral has 176 colour painted windows, with pictures of Charles the Great and knight Roeland. And of course last but nog least, a picture of St Jacob.
The old centre has a nice atmosphere, good shopping and nice restaurants. Lovely to have a day off and heap up for another week.
Chartres -Freteval, (in between; Bonneval, Chateaudun, Montigny-le-Gannelon,
Nothing special on this track at the first stage. Later on the meeting with the Loire which we could follow for quite a long time. Funny that water, river is breaking the monotone plain landscape. New energy. In this way we enter the Vendome. Freteval is a historic place, 16/17th century. In the 12th iron ore was found here and the first iron objects were made, an enormous progress in that period.
Freteval-Vouvray (in between; Meslay, Vendome, Chateau-Renault)
From iron to wine. Still following the Loire for a while, transformed to more cattle land, small woods on left and right. More change in the landscape and on my behalf it is better for my moral to bike through this landscape. Arriving at Vouvray, a nice small city along the river Loire, famous for its white wine. Beautiful campsite along a river.
Instead biking through Tours, we took a bypass along Montlouis, Larcay, Veretz, directions Chambray. At this point you pick up the original route.
Vouvray-St Cyr (in between; Veigne, Ste Catherine de Fierbois, St Maure de Touraine, Chatellerault, Naintre)
In Montbazon there is a magnificient "Donjon", a historic place from former counts of the region of Anjou. Track is different with open landscapes, changing with forests, rivers. From Nouatre there is a wide valley of the river the "Vienne". Easy to bike and on left and right side caves used in the older days for craftsmen. In "Igrandes" the architecture is changing from the northern gotic churches and cathedrals, this border line is signatured by more a Roman architecture with grand portals. They were built especially for the pilgrims, so they had a dry place to stay, even it was outside.
St Cyr campsite is really faboulous. Enormous lake, sandy beaches, exellent place for the campervan, excellent hygene in bathrooms and specially for kids, a wonderful place to stay.
St Cyr-Nanteuil-en-Vallee, (in between, Poitiers, Nouaille-Maupert, Brion, Chateau Garnier, Charroux,)
Charroux was in the Middle Ages the capital of the "Marche" region. The historic place has a beautiful covered market form the 16th century with an impressive wooden construction. The remarkable eight angle tower in opposite of the market is constructed with arches ( like the tower of Pisa), The was part of a enormous abbey church in 1096. The name of "Charroux" is connected with Peace of God, the first Christian rules in protecting victims of civilian wars. In the middle ages the abbey the centre of the pilgrims with more than 25.000 passangers per year.
"Nanteuil-en-Vallee" is a beautifull restored small village in a valley. The great abbey was constructed in 780 by Charles the Great, one of the oldest in the region.
Nanteuil-Aubeterre-sur-Dronne (, St Amant de Binnieure, Angouleme, Ronsenac )
After Angouleme we are arriving in the region Dronne and Castillon. Highlights; Angouleme was in earlier ages the doorway to the Aquitania, in the SW of France. All kinds of conquerors were passing Angouleme and left their culture behind in craftsmen, farmers etc. In Touvre is something special. Beside the river Touvre you bike along small lakes where on the surface nothing is to be seen. However, beneath the lakes there is an enormous richness of chalk caves deep below the surface. These caves find a highlight in Aubeterre-sur-Dronne. One of the reasons is that in the 90's a part of a mountain was accidently opened for construction reasons and from that moment a secret was discovered. In the cave there is a church which was built in the 12th century for pilgrim reasons. Now it appears that because of the regional wars, the monestary decided to close the cave so there was no destruction possible. Nowadays one of the main attractions of the village which is beautiful build against the mountain with leveling from the riverside to the top of the mountain. Furthermore, splendid architecture of private own houses, monestaries, etc. Worth a visit!!! Campsite is OK, along river and small lakes.
Aubeterre-sur-Drone-Loupiac, wine, wine, wine, as far as the eye can stretch
(in between; Monbadon, Montagne, St Emilion, Cadillac)
Highlights: in St Emilion is the largest church, carved in a mountain slope between the 9th and 12th century. It is a pilgrim church from origin. There is one entrance gate left, dating from the 13th century. The city nowadays is fully occupied by wine tourist from all over the world.
Cadillac; an old city ath the river Garonne, constructed by an the English king Henry III, from the 13th century. After the bridge in Cadillac the D11 leads to Landiras, light hilly, grapes and from there to the forest of Les Landes.
We stayed at a farmers campsite in Loupiac because the campsite in Cadillac was closed and devistated. The farm was very simple but had a beautifull look over the valley with vinyards alongside. From Cadillac the road to Loupiac is very steep, after a day of biking not a pleasant trip to end.
Loupiac-Lesperon
One word: Forests. In the beginning there is a hilly landscape, later on, flat is the word. For a Dutchman a very nice feeling after 900km of hills and mountain area. We arrived in Les Landes, hitten by two storms in the end of the 90's and two years ago. There was a lot of damage to the pine trees which you can notice if you go by car between the Spanish border and Bordeaux.
Campiste is OK and very quiet. About 30 km from the sandy beaches of the Baskian Gulf and ocean.
Lesperon-Sauveterre-de-Bearn
In one word, a amazing landscape, first of all by the forests of Les Landes, later on followed by more hilly landscape, rivers, fruit trees and in the distance the magnificant mountains of the Pyrenees.
Sauveterre-de-Bearn-Burguette
Crossing the French/Spanish border, a new highlight on our journey. In the morning uphill to St-Jean Pied-de-Port. For me an old acquintance because this was the start with Wies on our foot journey from this point to Santiago de Compostela, so, old memories. After a nice lunch, heading for the Puerto de Ibaneta, a tough mountain. Becaus my friend had to put the campervan over the mountain hill, I had to do this track on my own. A never ending trip, climbing from 200m to 1057m, a 17km long climb uphill, sometimes 13% steep. At the end, 3,5 hours later I was totally ruined for an hour, but a long lasting experience. Beautifull campsite with birdwatchers counting migratory birds.
Burguette-Estella ( in between; Pamplona, Puenta la Reina )
Awfull campsite to begin with in Estella. All cities we are gonna bike trough do have very old pilgrim history. This was the main route to Compestela, beside an alternative route through the mountain area going through Santander and eventually to Leon, where those pathes came together again. Estalla as a city is really Spanish; in the evening lots of people on the street, big square, cafes, restaurants. This is more pleasant than to stay in a French city of village.
The down hill track from Erro to Pamplona was astonishing. With an average of 35km per hour, we followed the river Erro on a beautifull day, the first day with warmth and sunshine, lovely.
Estella-Santo Domingo de la Galzada ( in between; Los Arcos, Logrono,Najera)
A clouded and rainy day, not to be expected. Lost in the city of Logrono, hours lost because of a wrong choosen exit. In the neighborhood of Najera very difficult terrain with steep mountain area and a too long choosen track, over more than 120km on a day with this difficult terrain. But the coffee in Los Arcos was more than OK. Nice Spanish bikers saying hello and gave enthousiastic signs underway. Najera is a very beautifull and old city build in the 12th century after Spanish conquered the Moores.
Campsite is horrible, try to avoid this one, just outside Santo Domingo.
Santo Domingo de la Galzada-Burgos (in between; BeloradoCerraton, San Juan de Ortega)
First in the morning to Belorado, beautifull day. We got a phonecall in Belorado that the campervan did not function anymore. We could not sold the problem by phone, so back on the bikes and try to solve it. It was repaired in two minutes, not a beautiful starting point of the day. Back with the bikes on the campervan to Belorado and from there start again with some heavy climbs towards Burgos. From Ibeas de Juarros a downhill track with sometimes 70km p/h downhill. Exciting. In Burgos there was waiting a resting day to visit the city. We did know it already but did'nt have the chance then to visit the cathedral, impressive. It is a cosey city, nice walks, shopping streets, cafe restaurants. A beautifull day.
Burgos-Granja Muedra ( in between; Villagonzalo Arcos, Pedrosa de M, Ciadoncha, Palenzuela, Valdecanas de Campos, Baltanas, VAlle de Cerrato, Devico de la Torre)
From this point we had to draw our own route, because we left the Camino Frances to Santiago. It was difficult because the campsites in Spain are nearly all closing between the 15th and 30th of September. Due to that fact, there is also the problem that in the coming area until Badajoz, it is not really a favourite vacation area, except for Salamanca and Placencia.
Hilly terrain, open, changes with more rivers, but at the end this is the Meseta, the famous area in Spain with small (sometimes totally uninhabited) villages, old people, agriculture.
Campsite is open all year, but do not expect miracles, because you are sleeping next to the E80.
Granja Muedra-Villamayor(5km above Salamanca ( in between; Valladolid-Alaejos,Canizal, la Orbada, Castellenos de la M), following the N620)
On this track we follow the N620 which is the old road next to the highway E80. It is a quiet road now, very well cycling and you get through to the old villages. Not an exciting landscape but changing between hills and small forests. Now and then steep climbing but long slopes, so downwards there is a lot to gain on speed. Campsite is what you expect near a road which leads to Salamanca. There is an busstation nearby the campsite which goes directly to the centre of the city. In Salamanca of course is the famous university where a lot of young people from Europe learning their languages. Furthermure the biggest square ( Plaza Mayor) of Spain.
Salamanca-Bejar ( in between; Aldeatejada, Las Veguilles, Frades de la Sierra, los Santos, Valdelacasa, Navalmoral Candelario), we choose to stay outside Bejar up in the mountains about 5 km SE from Bejar. A beautiful old restored village.
This route is in my view the old inland Spain. Nice small villages, green valleys, rivers, mountains ( so steep climbing now and than), sheep hurds, olive trees. Everything you would imagine about the country side of Spain.
Candelario-Plasencia ( in between; Cantagallo, Banos de Montemayor, Villar de Plasencia), following the N630)
The most fascinating part is the road downhill from Banos de Montemayor towards Garganilla, which is at leat 10km long. In between we reach the provence of Extramedura, extremely warm in summer, extremely cold in winter. It is is grasland all the way. In between you cross the river Rio Ambro and the various lakes on your right side. Campsite is SE of Plansencia, ca. 3km. A little bit crowdy because a lot of Spanish living there permanently, but nevertheless, for one stay it's OK. Plansencia is really a very old city from Arab and Roman history. It is on the way of the camino Rio de Plata, from Sevilla to Santiago de Compostella. Old centre, not big but with a nice square, old remaininig Roman churches which one of them is a hostel for pilgrims.
Plasencia-Caceres (in between; following still the N630, Grimaldo, Canaveral, Puente Romano de Alconetar, Caceres)
It is a little bit difficult to get from the campsite to the exit road N630, but just follow the south side of the ringway, follow at least 5 to 7 km that ringway until you enter a roundabout. From there you get the chance to enter the N630. The road is following quite a long time the E80 but from Canaveral it is going more inland. Also here on this track mainly graslands, a few places where you can drink coffee. But the highlight is the crossing over the Tejo, which huge reservoirs of water. From this point to Caceres it is rather borring. Just before you enter Caceres, you have a magnificient campsite overlooking the valley. You will have your own bathroom, excellent restaurant, swimming pool, an excellent place to stay.
Caceres-Elvas ( in between; Aliseda (N521), follow the EX303 and at a junction take the EX325. You will pass Villar del Rey,Eermita de Botoa, Badajoz, Elvas)
This was one of the most quiet tracks from Aliseda. A lot of wildlife, pigs, eagles, small birds. The track is mostly through forest and olive trees "hacienda's". Follow in Badajoz the ringway to Portugal all the way trough the city and you will enter a sideway which runs along the highway to Elvas. Because the campsite in Elvas was closed we had to drive all the way to a campsite between Borba and Evora), Azaruja (about 50KM from Elvas)
Azaruja-Alvito ( in between; take the N380, junction just before Alcacovas, take the N257 and follow until Viana de Alentejo, after Alvito there is water reservoir and on that reservoir there is one most beautifull campsites on our tour.
This is Portugal. Where we had excellent roads to bike on, in Portugal the roads are a lot smaller and the car drivers are a little more dangerous than in Spain, so take care! We arrived at our homeland, which pasteleria's in every village from the morning until late in the afternoon, that was a releif compared to Spain. The landscape in the Alentejo, one of the provinces of Portugal, is olive trees, oak trees, hilly landscape, sheep- and goat hurds.
Alvito-Melides ( in between; Odivelas, Ferreira do Alentejo, Ermidas Aldeia, Abela, Santiago de Cacem, Vila Nova de St Andra)
At first lots of grape vinyards, later on forest, oak tree land. Until Abela it is rather flat but from there you have to climb a very long and steep mountain until Santiago. From here it is downwards the ocean to Melides. Sandy beaches, OK campsite and a very quiet place to stay.
Melides-Vila Nova de Milfontes ( in between Silves, Porto Covo)
Nearly home, one of the last hurdles before reaching our village Espartal. We are biking along the ocean shore, sandy beaches;Lunch at Porto Covo, a rebuild old village. In summertime very busy, but after the vacations a very nice play to stay for a couple of hours. Arriving in Vila Nova de Milfontes, famous because its estuary at the end of river Rio Mira. Beside of that, for a Portuguese small town, rather busy but pleasant. Awfull campsite, try to avoid this one and take a 4* campsite between Porto Covo and Milfontes. You are passing this one.
Vila Nova de Milfontes-Espartal ( in between; Sao Teotonio, Odeceixe, Aljezur)
After 28 days our final day to get home. Well trained, most of the time a lot of fun, seeing beautiful places, villages and towns. From Spain the most excellent weather we could get, maybe a little bit cold in Spain in the evenings but that was no problem.
A celebration when we got home, a lot of people packed up in the street, balloons etc. The mileage: 2976 km really biking. Enough for a while, but already planning a new trip.
How it all started. At a visit of one our friends from Holland at Espartal Portugal we talked about what he could do after his retirement. Being both sportive guys one of the ideas was to follow a spiritual route from Holland to Portugal. And actually, there are three ways to follow this route through Belgium, France, Spain en Portugal. An East-side route through Belgium, France and Spain, in France a midth route and a Western route. In Spain there are from St Jean Pied de Port and Somport two main routes. One is going from St Jean Pied de Port to Burgos, Leon to Santiago; the other one is a track through the Picos, Santander and downwards to Leon. More possibilities than time. I describe these routes in general, there are more possibilities but that is beyond our aim.
In the following months, talked things over thanks to Skype and eventually the decision was made to start in Schagen (provence of North Holland), through Belgium, follow the western route in France, take the most common route in Spain to Burgos and bow to the south Salamanca, Caceres and from there enter Portugal in Elvas, Alvito(middle of Alentejo) to the shores of Sines, follow the coastline to Aljezur/Espartal. The estimated distance 3200km.
For me the question was where to get a new bike, special for this trip. Eventually I found one in Schagen. It seemed later on a very good choice. We talked things over and finally decided to buy a tailor made bycicle, Marco's Bikes, a frame Dragat Explorer X5.
The following question was how to organize the trip. Would we do it alone without any support? Sleeping in hotels, pensions? The fact was that my friend had bought a campervan a year ago. At the end that seemed to be the solution. With the help of our wives driving the campervan and supporting us on the way, a lovely offer which we appreciated a lot.
The time to set off was targeted on the 27th of august planning to fullfill the trip in more or less than 30 days. Sponsered by Marco, we headed on the 27th of augustus, pouring rain, but optimistic we began our adventure.
Preparation......
Training started in June as well as in Portugal as in Holland. In total more than 1000km of intensive training in mountain area, I tried to get a good condition before starting. Biking in 30o summertime Algarve was not the easiest way to get in shape, especially not in the mountain area, not my cup of tea.
Than the issue of the route. We decided not to use GPS because from a number of active bikers we learned that those maps wore neither edequite nor handy to bike. The solution was ordinary copies of detailled maps, plastify them and off we went.
Starting time.....
Off we went on the 27th of august our first track from Schagen via Haarlem to Voorhouten. Pouring rain, strong winds, not a start you would dream off. But despite weather conditions, it went well. Arriving at Voorhouten in the afternoon, welcomed by family from my friend, a nice meal and comfortable bed. Heading next day , Voorhouten, KrimpenadIjssel,Dordrecht, (ferry) -Breda (camping Ulvenhout), to a small village below Breda. Again pouring rain, even worse than the day before. Just in the area of Capelle ad Ijssel, an accident. A car had missed me on the special bicycle track, could not avoid her and whoops, a frontal collision, smashed on the tarted road. Consequencies; bicycle wheels destroyed, treadles, gear damaged etc. Luckely, no physical damage except some scrapes. Heading back to Schagen and try to fix the bike. And here comes my good friend Marco. Called him on a Sunday, made a deal to bring the bike on Monday morning. He would try to get new spare parts and started Monday night at 3 am, to reconstruct the bike. Tuesday morning at 7am my bike was totaly fixed, running again as before!!!!!!!! What a joy!
Heading by train with the bikes to Breda and we made a new start. One thing was better, the weather. Beautifull sunshine, green meadows, lovely waterways where we could bike on special tracks, a nice day to start. Breda-Hoogstraten,Mechelen, Aalst, Geraardsbergen, Lessine,Tournai. The Belgian is very beautifull, along canals, hilly area, old cities (Mechelen) to the French border. The camping was difficult to find and is on the north side of Tornai. Campingsite is OK, only is lying along a busy road. After a nice meal, prepared in the campervan, what a luxury, time to sleep. Early rise tomorrow.
Next day, planning a track from Tournai to Joncourt ( in between Sameon, Abscon, Cambrai, Bantouzelle, Honecourt s-Escault.
The beginning of the North France plain fields. Strong SW winds were against us, small villages and large spaces in between. I must admist that accept for Cambrai (beautifull old roman city) this kind of landscape does not attract me, but is a part of the Camino to Santiago. Cambrai is beautifull because of the monastery's, old cathedral and remaing houses from the periode around 1600. Despite of war damage, a lot of the old buildings have been restored. This last part of the track from Cambrai to Honecourt is hilly, now and then steep short climbs, but the environment full of forest, old farms, so a changing landscape, which is challenging to bike through.
Campingsite was not OK. More a campsite for caravans, facilities were poor.
Honecourt-s-Escault-Noyon (in between St Quentin, Noyon), two old cities from the Roman period. St Quentin was established in 2nd century under the old Augusta Viromanduorum, a cross-point of old Roman roads. In 1080 Augusta got city rights with all its benefits. Between 1230 and 1500 the old cathedral was build. The city is important in the Picardie provence. In the 1st world war much of the city was destroyed. Because of the empty places the city got beautifull parks instead. Noyon was established in 531 by the biship of St Medard and became the capital of the Frankian period.
The cathedral Notre Dame from 11th and 12th century is a masterpiece of the transformation period. There is museum Musee de Noyannais, dedicated to architecture and art. There has always been a French and Vlamish influence.
Noyon-Henonville, (in between Compiegne, Clermont, Mouy, Meru, )
Apart from the last part of the track, before Henonville, nothing to report. Hilly plains, a slight drizzle all day and still strong SW winds. It is time that we getting a little bit of warmth. Henonville is nice place with forests, small rivers, castles well preserved and an excellent campsite near the river. Facilities very well. In the evening to cafe, ( only open, off season). Thunder and heavy rain storms lying in our tent, which was not really waterproof. Next day, decision time. Buying a new tent, the old one was totally nothing anymore. Wies would be searching for another one the next day. ( she hard a hard time to find one but at last, a beautifull 3 persons tent, Spanish model, excellent.
Henonville-Chartres ( our first resting day at the tour)
Campsite in Chartres just outside the centre of the old city. Busy campsite because of the famous cathedral in Chartres, but facilities were excellent.
Chartres, old Roman city ( where not in France), with the cathedral is highlighted point in the city. The cathedral build between 1145 and 1155, destroyed when it was finished by fire. Rebuild again which totally new way of construction sealings, which was later on called "Gothic". In the church you can follow a path which is calle the " knob of life", a labyrinth with a circle of 12,5 mediocrity and 300 m in lenght. The cathedral has 176 colour painted windows, with pictures of Charles the Great and knight Roeland. And of course last but nog least, a picture of St Jacob.
The old centre has a nice atmosphere, good shopping and nice restaurants. Lovely to have a day off and heap up for another week.
Chartres -Freteval, (in between; Bonneval, Chateaudun, Montigny-le-Gannelon,
Nothing special on this track at the first stage. Later on the meeting with the Loire which we could follow for quite a long time. Funny that water, river is breaking the monotone plain landscape. New energy. In this way we enter the Vendome. Freteval is a historic place, 16/17th century. In the 12th iron ore was found here and the first iron objects were made, an enormous progress in that period.
Freteval-Vouvray (in between; Meslay, Vendome, Chateau-Renault)
From iron to wine. Still following the Loire for a while, transformed to more cattle land, small woods on left and right. More change in the landscape and on my behalf it is better for my moral to bike through this landscape. Arriving at Vouvray, a nice small city along the river Loire, famous for its white wine. Beautiful campsite along a river.
Instead biking through Tours, we took a bypass along Montlouis, Larcay, Veretz, directions Chambray. At this point you pick up the original route.
Vouvray-St Cyr (in between; Veigne, Ste Catherine de Fierbois, St Maure de Touraine, Chatellerault, Naintre)
In Montbazon there is a magnificient "Donjon", a historic place from former counts of the region of Anjou. Track is different with open landscapes, changing with forests, rivers. From Nouatre there is a wide valley of the river the "Vienne". Easy to bike and on left and right side caves used in the older days for craftsmen. In "Igrandes" the architecture is changing from the northern gotic churches and cathedrals, this border line is signatured by more a Roman architecture with grand portals. They were built especially for the pilgrims, so they had a dry place to stay, even it was outside.
St Cyr campsite is really faboulous. Enormous lake, sandy beaches, exellent place for the campervan, excellent hygene in bathrooms and specially for kids, a wonderful place to stay.
St Cyr-Nanteuil-en-Vallee, (in between, Poitiers, Nouaille-Maupert, Brion, Chateau Garnier, Charroux,)
Charroux was in the Middle Ages the capital of the "Marche" region. The historic place has a beautiful covered market form the 16th century with an impressive wooden construction. The remarkable eight angle tower in opposite of the market is constructed with arches ( like the tower of Pisa), The was part of a enormous abbey church in 1096. The name of "Charroux" is connected with Peace of God, the first Christian rules in protecting victims of civilian wars. In the middle ages the abbey the centre of the pilgrims with more than 25.000 passangers per year.
"Nanteuil-en-Vallee" is a beautifull restored small village in a valley. The great abbey was constructed in 780 by Charles the Great, one of the oldest in the region.
Nanteuil-Aubeterre-sur-Dronne (, St Amant de Binnieure, Angouleme, Ronsenac )
After Angouleme we are arriving in the region Dronne and Castillon. Highlights; Angouleme was in earlier ages the doorway to the Aquitania, in the SW of France. All kinds of conquerors were passing Angouleme and left their culture behind in craftsmen, farmers etc. In Touvre is something special. Beside the river Touvre you bike along small lakes where on the surface nothing is to be seen. However, beneath the lakes there is an enormous richness of chalk caves deep below the surface. These caves find a highlight in Aubeterre-sur-Dronne. One of the reasons is that in the 90's a part of a mountain was accidently opened for construction reasons and from that moment a secret was discovered. In the cave there is a church which was built in the 12th century for pilgrim reasons. Now it appears that because of the regional wars, the monestary decided to close the cave so there was no destruction possible. Nowadays one of the main attractions of the village which is beautiful build against the mountain with leveling from the riverside to the top of the mountain. Furthermore, splendid architecture of private own houses, monestaries, etc. Worth a visit!!! Campsite is OK, along river and small lakes.
Aubeterre-sur-Drone-Loupiac, wine, wine, wine, as far as the eye can stretch
(in between; Monbadon, Montagne, St Emilion, Cadillac)
Highlights: in St Emilion is the largest church, carved in a mountain slope between the 9th and 12th century. It is a pilgrim church from origin. There is one entrance gate left, dating from the 13th century. The city nowadays is fully occupied by wine tourist from all over the world.
Cadillac; an old city ath the river Garonne, constructed by an the English king Henry III, from the 13th century. After the bridge in Cadillac the D11 leads to Landiras, light hilly, grapes and from there to the forest of Les Landes.
We stayed at a farmers campsite in Loupiac because the campsite in Cadillac was closed and devistated. The farm was very simple but had a beautifull look over the valley with vinyards alongside. From Cadillac the road to Loupiac is very steep, after a day of biking not a pleasant trip to end.
Loupiac-Lesperon
One word: Forests. In the beginning there is a hilly landscape, later on, flat is the word. For a Dutchman a very nice feeling after 900km of hills and mountain area. We arrived in Les Landes, hitten by two storms in the end of the 90's and two years ago. There was a lot of damage to the pine trees which you can notice if you go by car between the Spanish border and Bordeaux.
Campiste is OK and very quiet. About 30 km from the sandy beaches of the Baskian Gulf and ocean.
Lesperon-Sauveterre-de-Bearn
In one word, a amazing landscape, first of all by the forests of Les Landes, later on followed by more hilly landscape, rivers, fruit trees and in the distance the magnificant mountains of the Pyrenees.
Sauveterre-de-Bearn-Burguette
Crossing the French/Spanish border, a new highlight on our journey. In the morning uphill to St-Jean Pied-de-Port. For me an old acquintance because this was the start with Wies on our foot journey from this point to Santiago de Compostela, so, old memories. After a nice lunch, heading for the Puerto de Ibaneta, a tough mountain. Becaus my friend had to put the campervan over the mountain hill, I had to do this track on my own. A never ending trip, climbing from 200m to 1057m, a 17km long climb uphill, sometimes 13% steep. At the end, 3,5 hours later I was totally ruined for an hour, but a long lasting experience. Beautifull campsite with birdwatchers counting migratory birds.
Burguette-Estella ( in between; Pamplona, Puenta la Reina )
Awfull campsite to begin with in Estella. All cities we are gonna bike trough do have very old pilgrim history. This was the main route to Compestela, beside an alternative route through the mountain area going through Santander and eventually to Leon, where those pathes came together again. Estalla as a city is really Spanish; in the evening lots of people on the street, big square, cafes, restaurants. This is more pleasant than to stay in a French city of village.
The down hill track from Erro to Pamplona was astonishing. With an average of 35km per hour, we followed the river Erro on a beautifull day, the first day with warmth and sunshine, lovely.
Estella-Santo Domingo de la Galzada ( in between; Los Arcos, Logrono,Najera)
A clouded and rainy day, not to be expected. Lost in the city of Logrono, hours lost because of a wrong choosen exit. In the neighborhood of Najera very difficult terrain with steep mountain area and a too long choosen track, over more than 120km on a day with this difficult terrain. But the coffee in Los Arcos was more than OK. Nice Spanish bikers saying hello and gave enthousiastic signs underway. Najera is a very beautifull and old city build in the 12th century after Spanish conquered the Moores.
Campsite is horrible, try to avoid this one, just outside Santo Domingo.
Santo Domingo de la Galzada-Burgos (in between; BeloradoCerraton, San Juan de Ortega)
First in the morning to Belorado, beautifull day. We got a phonecall in Belorado that the campervan did not function anymore. We could not sold the problem by phone, so back on the bikes and try to solve it. It was repaired in two minutes, not a beautiful starting point of the day. Back with the bikes on the campervan to Belorado and from there start again with some heavy climbs towards Burgos. From Ibeas de Juarros a downhill track with sometimes 70km p/h downhill. Exciting. In Burgos there was waiting a resting day to visit the city. We did know it already but did'nt have the chance then to visit the cathedral, impressive. It is a cosey city, nice walks, shopping streets, cafe restaurants. A beautifull day.
Burgos-Granja Muedra ( in between; Villagonzalo Arcos, Pedrosa de M, Ciadoncha, Palenzuela, Valdecanas de Campos, Baltanas, VAlle de Cerrato, Devico de la Torre)
From this point we had to draw our own route, because we left the Camino Frances to Santiago. It was difficult because the campsites in Spain are nearly all closing between the 15th and 30th of September. Due to that fact, there is also the problem that in the coming area until Badajoz, it is not really a favourite vacation area, except for Salamanca and Placencia.
Hilly terrain, open, changes with more rivers, but at the end this is the Meseta, the famous area in Spain with small (sometimes totally uninhabited) villages, old people, agriculture.
Campsite is open all year, but do not expect miracles, because you are sleeping next to the E80.
Granja Muedra-Villamayor(5km above Salamanca ( in between; Valladolid-Alaejos,Canizal, la Orbada, Castellenos de la M), following the N620)
On this track we follow the N620 which is the old road next to the highway E80. It is a quiet road now, very well cycling and you get through to the old villages. Not an exciting landscape but changing between hills and small forests. Now and then steep climbing but long slopes, so downwards there is a lot to gain on speed. Campsite is what you expect near a road which leads to Salamanca. There is an busstation nearby the campsite which goes directly to the centre of the city. In Salamanca of course is the famous university where a lot of young people from Europe learning their languages. Furthermure the biggest square ( Plaza Mayor) of Spain.
Salamanca-Bejar ( in between; Aldeatejada, Las Veguilles, Frades de la Sierra, los Santos, Valdelacasa, Navalmoral Candelario), we choose to stay outside Bejar up in the mountains about 5 km SE from Bejar. A beautiful old restored village.
This route is in my view the old inland Spain. Nice small villages, green valleys, rivers, mountains ( so steep climbing now and than), sheep hurds, olive trees. Everything you would imagine about the country side of Spain.
Candelario-Plasencia ( in between; Cantagallo, Banos de Montemayor, Villar de Plasencia), following the N630)
The most fascinating part is the road downhill from Banos de Montemayor towards Garganilla, which is at leat 10km long. In between we reach the provence of Extramedura, extremely warm in summer, extremely cold in winter. It is is grasland all the way. In between you cross the river Rio Ambro and the various lakes on your right side. Campsite is SE of Plansencia, ca. 3km. A little bit crowdy because a lot of Spanish living there permanently, but nevertheless, for one stay it's OK. Plansencia is really a very old city from Arab and Roman history. It is on the way of the camino Rio de Plata, from Sevilla to Santiago de Compostella. Old centre, not big but with a nice square, old remaininig Roman churches which one of them is a hostel for pilgrims.
Plasencia-Caceres (in between; following still the N630, Grimaldo, Canaveral, Puente Romano de Alconetar, Caceres)
It is a little bit difficult to get from the campsite to the exit road N630, but just follow the south side of the ringway, follow at least 5 to 7 km that ringway until you enter a roundabout. From there you get the chance to enter the N630. The road is following quite a long time the E80 but from Canaveral it is going more inland. Also here on this track mainly graslands, a few places where you can drink coffee. But the highlight is the crossing over the Tejo, which huge reservoirs of water. From this point to Caceres it is rather borring. Just before you enter Caceres, you have a magnificient campsite overlooking the valley. You will have your own bathroom, excellent restaurant, swimming pool, an excellent place to stay.
Caceres-Elvas ( in between; Aliseda (N521), follow the EX303 and at a junction take the EX325. You will pass Villar del Rey,Eermita de Botoa, Badajoz, Elvas)
This was one of the most quiet tracks from Aliseda. A lot of wildlife, pigs, eagles, small birds. The track is mostly through forest and olive trees "hacienda's". Follow in Badajoz the ringway to Portugal all the way trough the city and you will enter a sideway which runs along the highway to Elvas. Because the campsite in Elvas was closed we had to drive all the way to a campsite between Borba and Evora), Azaruja (about 50KM from Elvas)
Azaruja-Alvito ( in between; take the N380, junction just before Alcacovas, take the N257 and follow until Viana de Alentejo, after Alvito there is water reservoir and on that reservoir there is one most beautifull campsites on our tour.
This is Portugal. Where we had excellent roads to bike on, in Portugal the roads are a lot smaller and the car drivers are a little more dangerous than in Spain, so take care! We arrived at our homeland, which pasteleria's in every village from the morning until late in the afternoon, that was a releif compared to Spain. The landscape in the Alentejo, one of the provinces of Portugal, is olive trees, oak trees, hilly landscape, sheep- and goat hurds.
Alvito-Melides ( in between; Odivelas, Ferreira do Alentejo, Ermidas Aldeia, Abela, Santiago de Cacem, Vila Nova de St Andra)
At first lots of grape vinyards, later on forest, oak tree land. Until Abela it is rather flat but from there you have to climb a very long and steep mountain until Santiago. From here it is downwards the ocean to Melides. Sandy beaches, OK campsite and a very quiet place to stay.
Melides-Vila Nova de Milfontes ( in between Silves, Porto Covo)
Nearly home, one of the last hurdles before reaching our village Espartal. We are biking along the ocean shore, sandy beaches;Lunch at Porto Covo, a rebuild old village. In summertime very busy, but after the vacations a very nice play to stay for a couple of hours. Arriving in Vila Nova de Milfontes, famous because its estuary at the end of river Rio Mira. Beside of that, for a Portuguese small town, rather busy but pleasant. Awfull campsite, try to avoid this one and take a 4* campsite between Porto Covo and Milfontes. You are passing this one.
Vila Nova de Milfontes-Espartal ( in between; Sao Teotonio, Odeceixe, Aljezur)
After 28 days our final day to get home. Well trained, most of the time a lot of fun, seeing beautiful places, villages and towns. From Spain the most excellent weather we could get, maybe a little bit cold in Spain in the evenings but that was no problem.
A celebration when we got home, a lot of people packed up in the street, balloons etc. The mileage: 2976 km really biking. Enough for a while, but already planning a new trip.
